Kathmandu diaries: Some not so complex reflections

Before landing in Kathmandu, this writer was certainly expecting pleasant weather and a relaxed atmosphere. Since the last visit of the writer of this article (2017), there has been a marked improvement in terms of cleanliness, physical infrastructure and traffic in the capital city of Nepal. As one exits the airport, the changes which have taken place in terms of upgradation of the airport are clearly visible. The drive from the airport to the city gives an opportunity to observe other changes which have taken place.

It is tough to miss the point, that several locals observe, especially government workers, observe abundant caution vis-à-vis covid 19 by wearing masks.

Tourism is certainly thriving.  Thamel - the go to area for food, shopping of tidbits and entertainment (each individual has a different notion!) is a clear reiteration of this. Unlike other tourist hang out spots in other parts of the world however, there is an old world charm to Thamel. As a result of tourism, the service sector has got a tremendous boost with not just local hotels mushrooming, but many international chains expanding their presence.

While we often focus on economic and geopolitical issues, it is also important to observe aspects like culture, eating habits and even fashion and consumer trends to understand the changes taking place in a country. While these are fleeting observations, in spite of all the inadequacies it is always important to not just keep a note, but also share one’s reflections about a place.

 First, like in other parts of South Asia, the Middle class is growing through a service sector. The new generation seems aspirational, while being clearly steeped in its traditions. While it is true that like many other developing economies Nepal is dependent upon remittances, there are slow but important changes which are taking place.

While often a simplistic one sided approach vis-à-vis Nepal’s ties with India and China, is put forward, doing so is clearly problematic and this is all the more evident when one talks to locals.

India due to geographical proximity and strong people to people contact with Nepal, has its own share of more than ‘Soft Power’ in spite of geopolitical issues and other differences. This is evident not just from the contribution of Indian businesses to Nepal or Indian products being a household name, but also the fact that in spite of the current generation having greater exposure and connectivity with different parts of the world, the top educational institutions in India are a preferred destination for higher studies.

This is not to say, that China is not attempting to catch up with India even in terms of very simple aspects (apart from the more complex ones) of what would be categorised as ‘Soft Power’. On a lighter note, Thamel is truly where India and China meet (apologies to Thant Myint-U he had used this expression for Myanmar) but also compete. A particular stretch in Thamel is like a ‘Mini-China town’, with Chinese shops, restaurants, and hotels. Chinese food is available from various provinces. Restaurants with names ‘Sichuan’, ‘Guangxi’ are common. Customers can consume authentic Chinese fare at reasonable rates.

Here it would be pertinent to point out not just authentic Chinese food, what is referred to as Indian Chinese is available, and there are several Indian, Japanese and Korean restaurants as well – not to mention restaurants serving continental and Italian cuisine. The most interesting cite in Thamel is Indian products being sold in certain Chinese shops – this actually reveals a lot about the complexity of the India-China-Nepal triangle at every level!

In conclusion, while South Asians, of different hues, have an obsession with travelling to the developed world we know very little about other countries in our region or view them from simplistic prisms. We often build stereotypes, remain frozen in time and are unable to understand changes which are taking place in our vicinity.